Outrage in Italy as iconic pizzeria that invented the Margherita pizza in 1889 is ordered to CLOSE – for breaking health and safety rules
- Antica Pizzeria Brandi has been staple for number of tourists over the years
- Restaurant was asked to close by authorities because of hygiene breaches
- Owner Eduardo Pagnani hoping to deal with deficiencies and reopen soon
- The Margherita pizza was created there in 1889 in honour of Queen Margherita
Italians are furious after the legendary pizzeria that invented the Margherita pizza in 1889 was ordered to shut its doors yesterday for breaking health and safety rules.
The Antica Pizzeria Brandi in Naples has long been a staple for tourists visiting the city and has hosted a number of famous guests over the years.
But the restaurant, the oldest pizzeria in the world having opened its doors in 1760, was asked to close by authorities Nas and ASL (Azienda Sanitaria Locale) because of a number of hygiene and sanitary breaches.
The Antica Pizzeria Brandi in Naples, pictured, has long been a staple for tourists visiting the Italian city and has hosted a number of famous guests over the years. But the restaurant, the oldest pizzeria in the world, was asked to close by authorities Nas and ASL (Azienda Sanitaria Locale) because of a number of hygiene and sanitary breaches
After an inspection two months ago, recommendations for the restaurant’s hygiene had not yet been fulfilled.
Antica Pizzeria Brandi immediately began work on cooperating with what the health authority recommended.
According to Pagnani and those who work with him, findings by the health authority would be about ‘minor’ issues.
These include water infiltration in a room, broken tiles and failing to comply with a law about collecting glass in bins.
Owner Eduardo Pagnani is looking to reopen as early as possible, according to a press release from his lawyer. It is possible that he will welcome customers back next weekend.
Customers were told of the closure via an announcement on social media which was posted in multiple languages.
Antica Pizzeria Brandi said the restaurant was undergoing ‘extraordinary’ maintenance until at least Friday.
People were left shocked by the announcement and showed their solidarity with the owner and the staff.
The closure has made waves in the whole of Naples among tourists and other restaurants.
Naples is still full of tourists due to ongoing hot weather in October.
The Antica Pizzeria Brandi in Naples has long been a staple for tourists visiting the Italian city and has hosted a number of famous guests over the years. But the restaurant, the oldest pizzeria in the world, was asked to close by authorities Nas and ASL (Azienda Sanitaria Locale) because of a number of hygiene and sanitary breaches (stock image)
Antonio Pace, president of the True Neapolitan Pizza Association told Ansa: ‘The measure affects not only Brandi, but the story of Margherita and an entire system that revolves around pizza and which has recovered from three years of suffering, first for the pandemic and then for the expensive bill.
‘I do not know the merits of the alleged defaults- but it seems to me a severe measure. I think we could have been less energetic and allowed a little more time to comply’.
Mr Pace is concerned that the closure of Antica Pizzeria Brandi will affect the whole industry and its image as it will be read about around the world.
When was the Margherita pizza invented?
Modern pizza can be traced to Naples in the early 19th century, its story really dates to the flatbreads of the ancient Etruscans who settled in Italy in the 8th century BC.
From archeological remains, we know that they made a sort of thick dough from ground grains, which was baked beneath hot ashes and then topped with seasoned oils, herbs, and other available ingredients. The Romans called these ash cakes, panus focus, which evolved into the Italian word, focaccia.
Even the word pizza is older than our concept of modern pizza. Until the 19th century, the word was used to refer to any round-shaped breads and desserts, like ‘pizza di Pasqua’ (panettone-shaped cheesy Easter bread) and ‘pizza dolce teramana ‘ (a round, layered sponge cake traditional in Abruzzo).
In Pellegrino Artusi’s famed 1890s cookbook La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiar Bene (Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well) ) there are three recipes for pizza, all of them sweet.
From at least the early 1500s, small round flatbreads topped with herbs and oil, referred to as pizza, were a popular street food in Naples. Later that century, after their introduction from the New World, tomatoes would top the pizza.
This style was called pizza marinara (fisherman’s wife pizza), so named because it was traditionally prepared by a seaman’s wife upon his return from a fishing trip.
Antica Pizza Brandi opened in 1760 and has a plaque outside which reveals that it was where the margherita was invented in 1889.
Chef of the restaurant at the time, Raffaele Esposito, created the dish in honour of the Queen of Italy, Margherita of Savoy.
The recipe was also created for Italian unification and toppings symbolise this as they represent the colours of the flag- tomatoes (red), mozzarella (white) and basil (green).
Toppings which were already used in Naples were mixed to create the pizza.
The most commonly used toppings were recorded in 1866 by Francesco De Bourcard.
These included: garlic, oil, salt, grated cheese, lard, basil, shellfish, mozzarella and tomato.
Source: La Cucina Italiana
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