By Susan Spungen, The New York Times
Another trip around the sun during COVID means another year of Zoom Seders. Whether virtual or in-person, a good Seder service can take a few hours with only ceremonial nibbles like matzo, haroseth, parsley and — get excited — a hard-boiled egg dipped in salt water. Hunger builds, but at least there’s wine.
The Seder meal that follows is culinarily a bit like Thanksgiving in that there are certain dishes, like matzo ball soup and gefilte fish, that are nonnegotiable. But there are other parts of the menu that can be tweaked, and what a good year to try something new and perhaps a bit more exciting than the usual.
Roast Chicken With Apricots and Olives
Ground sumac, which is more widely available than ever, lends its pinkish tone and lemony tang to this roasted chicken. Citrus juices amplify the acidity in the assertive marinade, with dried apricots and green olives contributing their sweet and sour notes to a dish with real verve.
Whole Roasted Cauliflower With Pistachio Pesto
A whole roasted cauliflower is incredibly easy and delightfully showstopping. Here, the crucifer is cooked from start to finish in one pan: It’s first softened by oven-steaming, then roasted until browned on the outside. This is one of those vegetable dishes that easily serves as a main course for vegetarians or vegans. Go for a bright orange cauliflower if you can find one for a more vibrant effect. A bright, punchy cilantro and pistachio pesto slathered on top brings freshness and even more color.
Matzo Frittata
If you are a savory matzo brei person, you will adore this matzo frittata. And if you’re not familiar with matzo brei, consider this an introduction to the genre. In this recipe, a blend of eggs and matzo is packed with jammy caramelized onions and mushrooms, then crisped in a pan and cut into wedges. It reports for duty as a side dish, but provides plenty of leftovers that keep well for breakfasts and lunches.
Sweet Potatoes With Tsimmes Glaze
Making tsimmes needn’t be a big fuss: This version evokes the spirit of the traditional fruit and vegetable casserole in a modern way requiring almost no prep work and very little time. Pop some halved sweet potatoes in the oven to roast and stir up a simple but lip-smacking glaze full of citrus, ginger, honey and prunes to pour over before serving.
Coconut Macaroons
After a big meal and when there are still rituals to perform, there isn’t much room, or even time, for dessert. It’s late — who wants to wash even more plates and forks? These perfect coconut macaroons, along with some strawberries and perhaps some Medjool dates, are dessert enough. They’re the ideal finger foods to eat while reclining with those you love.
And to Drink …
If this were an ordinary Passover meal, with a large group, I would suggest a bottle of both white and red, because this meal will go with both. You might still want to do that, or pick one or the other, depending on which of these dishes you prepare. The cupboard of kosher wine options has expanded, but it still won’t contain obscurities, so these choices are mainstream. A white is best with the cauliflower dish, like a Mâconnais or unoaked chardonnay, or perhaps a Sancerre or restrained sauvignon blanc. The chicken would be great with either of these whites. You could also try a Beaujolais, a Loire cabernet franc or Bordeaux or a Crozes-Hermitage or St.-Joseph. I’d stick with the Sancerre for the matzo frittata. Manischewitz with dessert, for old times’ sake. — Eric Asimov
Roast Chicken With Apricots and Olives
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 1 hour, plus at least 2 hours’ marinating
Ingredients
- 3 1/2 to 4 pounds bone-in chicken pieces (see Note)
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt
- 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice, plus 1 lemon, sliced and seeded
- 1/4 cup fresh blood orange or regular orange juice
- 1/4 cup honey
- 4 to 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 3/4 teaspoon dried thyme
- 3 tablespoons ground sumac
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 cup (6 ounces) dried apricots
- 1 cup (4 ounces) pitted Castelvetrano olives with 2 tablespoons brine
- 4 large or 8 small shallots, roots trimmed, peeled and cut lengthwise into quarters or halves
- 1/4 cup dry white wine
Preparation
1. Slash each piece of chicken through the skin a few times, about 1 inch deep. Season with the salt and pepper and place in a large bowl or large resealable plastic bag. Whisk lemon juice, orange juice, honey, garlic, thyme, sumac and 3 tablespoons olive oil in a bowl to combine. Add lemon slices, apricots, olives and olive brine. Pour the marinade over the chicken and cover tightly or remove as much air as possible before sealing it. Set on a small sheet pan and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours, turning the bag from time to time.
2. Position a rack 8 inches from the broiler heat source. Place an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss shallots with remaining tablespoon oil and spread out on a large sheet pan, cut sides down. Place on the lower rack and cook, turning once, until starting to turn golden, 10 to 12 minutes.
3. Remove the pan from the oven and use your hands and a slotted spoon to scoop the chicken, apricots, lemon slices and olives onto the pan, reserving the marinade. Arrange in an even layer with the chicken skin side up and return to the oven. Cook for 15 minutes, baste the chicken with the drippings, and cook until chicken juices run clear, about 10 minutes longer. Remove the pan from the oven. Heat the broiler to high.
4. Pour the reserved marinade and wine over the chicken, and broil until the chicken is browned and the liquid is thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. If the apricots start to get too dark, turn them over in the sauce. Transfer to a platter. If you used chicken breasts, cut them in half. Pour the sauce over everything or serve it on the side.
Tips: You can buy your favorite bone-in parts or cut a whole 3 1/2- to 4-pound chicken into bone-in pieces: 2 breasts, 2 thighs, 2 drumsticks, 2 wings.
Whole Roasted Cauliflower With Pistachio Pesto
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 1 hour
Ingredients
For the Cauliflower:
- 1 head cauliflower, preferably orange (about 1 1/2 pounds)
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 small yellow onions, sliced 1/4 inch thick lengthwise
- 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- Pinch of black pepper
For the Pesto:
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 1/2 cup lightly packed cilantro and flat-leaf parsley leaves, plus more for garnish
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 1/4 cup raw shelled pistachios
- 1 garlic clove, sliced
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- Pinch of black pepper
Preparation
1. Make the cauliflower: Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat oven to 400 degrees. Trim the cauliflower, making sure the stem is cut flush with the head so it sits flat. Heat a 10-inch cast-iron or other heavy ovenproof skillet on the stove over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil, the onions and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, until translucent and turning golden on the edges, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in 3/4 cup water and remove from the heat.
2. Rub the cauliflower with the remaining tablespoon oil then with the pepper and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Clear the center of the skillet and place the cauliflower in it. Cover the pan tightly with foil and place in the center of the oven. Bake until a paring knife meets no resistance when inserted into the cauliflower, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, make the pesto: Reserve a bit of lemon zest for garnish. Place the rest in a food processor, along with the herbs, oil, pistachios, garlic, salt and pepper. Pulse until well combined.
4. Turn oven to 450 degrees on the regular setting or, if you have a convection option, 425 degrees. Uncover the cauliflower and baste with some of the pan juices. Cook, basting occasionally and adding 1/4 cup of water to the pan if it threatens to dry out, until nicely browned, 20 to 30 minutes more. Spoon the pesto over top, sprinkle with reserved lemon zest and more herbs, and serve.
Matzo Frittata
Yield: 8 servings
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Ingredients
- 4 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 extra-large Spanish onion (1 pound), halved and sliced into 1/4-inch half-moons
- Kosher salt and black pepper
- 12 ounces white or brown button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
- 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, chopped
- 6 sheets salted or unsalted matzo, broken into small pieces
- 6 large eggs
- 1/2 cup lightly packed flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
Preparation
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat a 12-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 1/2 tablespoons oil and then the onion. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until very well browned and starting to caramelize, 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Add 3/4 cup water, stirring the onion and scraping the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, covered, until very soft and golden, about 20 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Stir in 2 tablespoons water, then scrape the onion into a bowl.
3. Bring a large kettle or saucepan of water to a boil. Meanwhile, return the skillet to medium-high heat (no need to wash). Add 1 1/2 tablespoons oil, then the mushrooms. Season with the rosemary, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in a little water, scraping up any bits in the pan, let it evaporate and transfer to the bowl with the onions. Rinse the pan.
4. Place the matzo in a colander set inside a large bowl. Pour in the boiling water and let sit for 1 minute. Pull the colander out of the water and let drain.
5. In a large bowl, beat the eggs well and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Add the mushroom mixture, the softened matzo and the parsley and stir very thoroughly.
6. Heat the rinsed skillet over medium-high heat. Heat the remaining tablespoon oil and then pour in the matzo mixture and smooth the top. Cook, undisturbed, until firm on bottom and edges, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to the oven and cook until set in the middle and golden brown on top, 12 to 15 minutes. (If desired, broil for 1 to 2 minutes to brown the top.) Loosen from pan if needed with a rubber spatula and slide onto a cutting board or plate. Sprinkle lightly with salt and cut into wedges to serve.
Sweet Potatoes With Tsimmes Glaze
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
Ingredients
- 4 small sweet potatoes (6 to 8 ounces each), halved lengthwise
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- Kosher salt and black pepper
- 2 navel or Cara Cara oranges, zested and juiced
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 3 tablespoons honey
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1 (1 1/2-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and cut into fine slivers
- 1/2 cup bite-size pitted prunes, quartered
Preparation
1. Position a rack on the lower third of the oven and heat oven to 400 degrees. Line a sheet pan with foil.
2. Rub the sweet potatoes with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange on the pan cut sides down and roast on the low rack until nicely browned on the cut sides and a paring knife inserted meets no resistance, 30 to 40 minutes. If they are getting too dark on the cut sides but are not yet done, turn them over.
3. Meanwhile, combine the orange juice, half of the orange zest, lemon juice, honey, cinnamon, ginger, prunes and a big pinch of salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to maintain a steady, low simmer. Cook, stirring and smashing a few prunes against the pan occasionally, until thick and syrupy about 15 minutes. Cover to keep warm.
4. Arrange sweet potatoes on a serving platter cut sides up and spoon the glaze over top, rewarming with a splash of water to loosen, if needed. Sprinkle the remaining orange zest over the top.
Coconut Macaroons
Yield: About 18 macaroons
Total time: 40 minutes
Ingredients
- 3 large egg whites
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- 3/4 cup/151 grams sugar
- 1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon melted virgin coconut oil or neutral oil, like safflower or grapeseed
- 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract or seeds from 1/2 vanilla bean (see Notes)
- 1 1/2 cups/128 grams sweetened flaked coconut
- 1 1/2 cups/128 grams shredded unsweetened coconut
- 2 tablespoons coconut flour, matzo cake meal or all-purpose flour (see Notes)
- 4 ounces/113.5 grams bittersweet chocolate, chopped
- Flaky salt, for sprinkling (optional)
Preparation
1. Position racks in the top and bottom of the oven and heat oven to 325 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk egg whites, salt and sugar until creamy, thick and white. Whisk in 1 tablespoon of the oil and the vanilla.
3. Fold in the flaked and shredded coconut and the flour, mixing well so the coconut is evenly moistened. At this point, the macaroons can be baked, but you can also refrigerate the mixture in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
4. Use a small 1-ounce cookie scoop to portion the coconut mixture (about 2 tablespoons per macaroon) and squeeze together in a ball. Space a few inches apart on the prepared sheets and rough up the texture a little with your fingers.
5. Bake, switching the pans from back to front and top to bottom, until golden on the bottom and toasty all over, 16 to 21 minutes. Let cool on baking sheets for a few minutes, then transfer the macaroons to a cooling rack close together. Set the rack over one of the baking sheets (keep the parchment on) to catch chocolate drips during drizzling. Cool the macaroons completely.
6. Melt the chocolate with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon oil in a small saucepan over low heat and stir well. Drizzle the macaroons with the chocolate. Let the chocolate set a little in a cool place or in the refrigerator before topping with flaky salt. The macaroons can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 1 month.
Tips: If making these for Passover, use vanilla bean instead of extract. If you don’t have vanilla bean, you can also use lemon, orange or lime zest to flavor the macaroons. Don’t use vanilla extract for Passover.
Also, don’t use all-purpose flour for Passover. Coconut flour is fine if it’s kosher for Passover.
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