Squash and chickpea stew, all kinds of baked potatoes and more recipes.
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By Melissa Clark
āThe Clark Hiltonā was my grandmotherās wry name for the rambling house in Ditmas Park, Brooklyn, where I grew up. We had aĀ constant stream of guestsĀ because my parents issued standing invitations to family, friendsĀ and their families, andĀ friends of friendsĀ to stay for a meal, a nightĀ or even a month.
And if our hotel had a lobby, it was the kitchen. There, I might find my cousins from Wisconsin sipping sauvignon and kneading anadama bread with my dad, or Jean-Claud from Paris punning in Franglish and snipping chives into a coq au vin. Kitchen work breeds kinship, and the Clark Hilton lodged and fed what is now my extended family.
If you donāt always know whoās coming to dinner, itās best to make dishes that are elastic.Ā Aim forĀ enough leftovers to feed, say,Ā the carload of your sisterās college roommates that just pulled into the driveway. A perfect example is Kay Chunās squash and chickpea stew with lemongrass (above), reminiscent of a Thai curry and spiked with peanut butter. You could serve it with Ali Slagleās avocado and onion salad with its plush texture and sharp allium bite, or Zainab Shahās bhindi masala, okra with red onions and tomatoes.
And you can never go wrong with a big platter of baked potatoes, dressed up in all kinds of ways: classic with butter and maybe some scallions; twice-bakedĀ andĀ crowd-pleasing, vegan or regular; stuffed with crab, jalapeƱo and mint; andĀ turned into baked potato soup. Want to be the host with the roast? ServeĀ the spuds with a lemony roast chicken or a brawny meatloaf, and throw in a celery and fennel salad topped with Parmesan for crunch.
Because nothing says welcome like a great dessert āĀ whether you have guests or not;Ā self-care is just hospitality for oneĀ ā tryĀ Yossy Arefiās brown-butter poundcake, whichĀ is richer than the usual recipe, with a crackly lemon icing on top.
Youāll need a subscription to access the recipes. If you donāt already have one, subscribing to New York Times Cooking is an absolute cinch. (And if you are already subscribed, we thank you.) We are also on YouTube, TikTokĀ and Instagram,Ā whereĀ you can watchĀ Nargisse Benkabbou makeĀ her golden-hued skillet chicken with turmeric and orange, a bright and zesty flavor combination thatās traditional in Morocco. If youāre in need of any technical help, the smart folks at [email protected] will be there for you. And Iām at [email protected], as always, if you want to say hi.
If youāve never worked in food service, know that running a restaurant is very different from inviting people to gather in your home. And yet the lines start to blur at Sarapes Mexican Restaurant, featured in Melissa Guerreroās recent story in The Times with exuberant photographs by Adrian Martinez Chavez. Locals congregate at this spiritual hub for karaoke, commiseration and comfort. As a member of the restaurant familyās third generation puts it, āFood brings people together. I think thatās the source of life.ā
There may be a pandemic-related volatility between restaurants and their guests right now, writes Ligaya Mishan in T: The New York Times Style Magazine. But she makes the case that the dining room, whether public or private, can be a schoolroom for empathy.
āIs this not the arc of a life,ā Ligaya writes, āto slowly become aware of the people around us and the labor required to make our survival and happiness possible ā the spills quietly mopped up, the food materializing as if out of thin air on the table ā and to learn, if we can, to do the same for others?ā
Samās back on Friday, and Iāll see you on Monday.
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